Lima is the gastronomic capital of South America. The restaurants Central and Maido rank among the best in the world and are booked out months in advance, but you can eat just as well at a cevicheria for 20 soles. Indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese (chifa) and Japanese (nikkei) cuisines all mix here. Lunch is the main meal of the day, and the set lunch menu is the cheapest way to eat.
Ceviche
Raw white fish marinated for a few minutes in lime juice with onion and ají limo chilli, served with sweet potato and toasted corn. The leftover marinade is called leche de tigre and is drunk from a glass as a hangover cure. It's eaten at lunch, never in the evening.
Lomo saltado
Strips of beef flash-fried in a wok with soy sauce, onion and tomatoes, served with both chips and rice. A showcase of Chinese-Peruvian chifa cuisine, as much at home in Peru as indigenous cooking.
Ají de gallina
Shredded chicken in a creamy sauce of ají amarillo yellow chilli, bread and walnuts, served with rice, egg and olive. A mildly spicy, hearty home-style dish that's easy on unfamiliar stomachs.
Anticuchos
Skewers of beef heart marinated in vinegar and chilli and grilled over charcoal, served with potato and corn. A street food sold from stalls after dark; those not expecting offal are often surprised how tender it is.
Causa limeña
A cold layered terrine of mashed potato flavoured with lime and ají amarillo, filled with tuna or chicken, mayonnaise and avocado. Peru has more than 3,000 potato varieties, and causa is the most elegant way to try them.
Pisco sour
Grape brandy pisco shaken with lime, sugar and egg white, topped with a dash of bitters. The national cocktail, whose origin Peru and Chile both claim. It's stronger than it tastes — 2 are enough.
Chicha morada and Inca Kola
Chicha morada is a non-alcoholic drink made from purple corn boiled with pineapple, cinnamon and cloves; Inca Kola is a yellow, bubblegum-flavoured soda that Peruvians drink more than Coca-Cola. Both are ordered with lunch.
Picarones
Fried rings of pumpkin-and-sweet-potato dough drizzled with chancaca cane-sugar syrup. Sold freshly fried from stalls in the afternoon and evening; once cold, they lose all their charm.