When is the best time for the northern lights in Tromsø?+
From September to April, on clear nights. The clearest nights tend to fall in September, October, February and March. December and January have the most darkness, but coastal weather is more often overcast then. Over three or four nights the odds of seeing the lights are very high, especially with an organized hunt that chases clear skies.
When can you see whales?+
Humpback and orca whales arrive to feed on herring in the fjords north of Tromsø from late October to January, peaking in November and December. Tours run mainly around Skjervøy. In summer, whales can only be seen on trips from Andenes in the Vesterålen islands. The herring's location shifts from year to year, so ask about the current situation.
What is the polar night, and is it depressing?+
From 27 November to 15 January the sun never rises above the horizon. It isn't total darkness, though — around midday there are two to three hours of blue twilight, snow reflects the light, and the town is full of lights and candles. For visitors it feels more atmospheric than depressing. For photos and excursions, February and March are better.
How much does Tromsø cost?+
Norway is one of the most expensive countries in Europe. A hotel in the centre starts at around 1,800 NOK a night, a main course in a restaurant costs 350–500 NOK, and a beer 120–160 NOK. Trips to see the lights, whales and huskies each cost 1,500–3,000 NOK. You'll save by booking accommodation with a kitchenette and shopping at supermarkets.
How to dress for winter in Tromsø?+
Temperatures hover around freezing, but wind and humidity make it feel colder. Wear wool thermal layers, fleece or a down jacket, and a waterproof, windproof outer shell, plus a hat and gloves. For walking on icy pavements, use ice grippers on your shoes. Insulated suits are provided on lights- and whale-watching trips.
Can you see the northern lights right from the city?+
During strong activity, yes, even above the city centre. But city lights dim the aurora, so it's better to head up to the Storsteinen viewpoint by cable car, to Lake Prestvannet, or to Telegrafbukta beach in the south of the island. For the best experience you need to get out of town.
Is dog sledding in Tromsø worth it?+
Yes, it's one of the highlights of winter. The farms are on Kvaløya and in the Tamok valley, an hour to an hour and a half from town, where there's more snow. You can go during the day for mountain views or at night with a chance of the aurora. Prices are higher than in Finnish Lapland.
How many days in Tromsø?+
At least three to four nights, to give yourself more chances at clear-sky aurora viewing. One day is enough for the city itself; the rest is for excursions — whales, dogs, fjords. A week lets you add Senja or continue by the Hurtigruten coastal ferry to the Lofoten Islands.