Cartagena Travel Guide: Old Town and Day Trips

Discover Cartagena

Cartagena de Indias was the most heavily fortified port in Spanish America for 3 centuries — silver from Peru and emeralds from the Andes were shipped through here before sailing on to Seville, which is exactly why it was repeatedly besieged by English and French pirates. The Spanish responded with 11km of walls and the fortress of San Felipe de Barajas, the largest military structure they built anywhere in the New World. Inside the walls stands a city that has barely changed since the 18th century: cobbled lanes, houses with wooden balconies overgrown with bougainvillea, churches and tree-lined squares. It is UNESCO-listed and the most visited destination in Colombia. Alongside the old town stand Bocagrande, a strip of high-rise beachfront hotels that looks like Miami, and Getsemaní, once a working-class quarter outside the walls and now full of murals, hostels and evening life. The Caribbean here is hot and humid year-round, with an average temperature around 31°C, and shade on the cobbled streets is rare. The finest beaches aren't in the city itself but on the Rosario Islands, an hour's sail to the south.

What to see

The places worth your time in Cartagena, and what to expect at each

Ciudad Amurallada and the City Walls

Old Town

The fortified old town, whose 11km of walls took the Spanish 2 centuries to build. Inside is a network of cobbled lanes with colonial houses, balconies and squares; the walls can be walked along their top, with bars facing the sea along the southern stretch.

Tip: Walking the walls is free, and the best time is an hour before sunset — Café del Mar, on the bastion, is the best-known and most expensive spot nearby, but nothing stops you sitting on the wall next to it with your own bottle. At midday the walls have no shade and are unbearably hot.

Admission:: free
Time needed:: 3 h

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

San Felipe

The largest fortress the Spanish built anywhere in the Americas — construction began in 1657 on a hill above the city, and it's honeycombed with underground tunnels with an echoing acoustic design that let defenders hear the enemy's footsteps. It withstood a British siege in 1741.

Tip: Go right at opening, 8am, when it's cool and the fortress is empty; after 10am it's a hot concrete expanse with no shade. Bring your own torch for the tunnels — the rented ones are weak. Admission is free for everyone on the last Sunday of the month, though it gets crowded then.

Admission:: admission fee
Time needed:: 2 h

Getsemaní

A quarter just outside the walls that was still considered dangerous as recently as 15 years ago and is now Cartagena's liveliest area. Calle de la Sierpe and Callejón Angosto are covered in street art, with colourful flags and umbrellas strung overhead.

Tip: The whole neighbourhood gathers at Plaza de la Trinidad every evening after 7pm — music, dancing and food from stalls, and it's the best entertainment in Cartagena, free of charge. Prices in Getsemaní run roughly half those in the old town, including accommodation.

Admission:: free
Time needed:: 3 h

Convento de la Popa

La Popa

A monastery from 1607 on the highest hill above the city, 150m above sea level. It has a white bougainvillea-covered courtyard, a chapel with the Virgin of Candelaria, and above all the only viewpoint from which the whole of Cartagena, the bay and the offshore islands are visible.

Tip: Don't walk up — not so much for safety as the heat and steep climb — a taxi will wait at the top for an agreed fare. Go in the late afternoon, when the light is best and the main crowds have left; the monastery closes around 5:30pm.

Admission:: admission fee
Time needed:: 1.5 h

Torre del Reloj and Plaza de los Coches

Old Town

The clock tower above the main gate into the walled city is a symbol of Cartagena; behind it opens a triangular square that once held a colonial-era slave market. Today, stalls selling traditional sweets line the Portal de los Dulces arcade.

Tip: Get a free taste of the sweets under the arcades before buying — vendors offer this themselves, and quality varies a lot between stalls. Sweets sold by weight are often overpriced, so ask the price per 100g in advance.

Admission:: free
Time needed:: 1 h

Palacio de la Inquisición

Old Town

A baroque palace from 1770 with a carved stone portal, home from 1610 to the tribunal of the Holy Inquisition — one of only 3 in all of Spanish America. It now houses a museum with torture instruments and an exhibition on the city's history.

Tip: The museum is small and can be seen in an hour; the most interesting part is the upper floor on Cartagena's history, which most visitors skip. In front of the palace, on Plaza Bolívar, there's shade from trees and benches — a rarity in Cartagena at midday.

Admission:: admission fee
Time needed:: 1 h

Bocagrande

A peninsula south of the old town with high-rise hotels, apartments and a city beach — Colombia's answer to Miami Beach. The sand is dark and the sea murky, but it's the only beach within walking distance of the centre, and the evening promenade is lively.

Tip: Beach vendors are persistent, and a massage or "free to try" oysters end up on a bill — agree the price up front, or give a firm "no, gracias" and move on. For swimming, the islands are the better choice; Bocagrande is for sunset and dinner.

Admission:: free
Time needed:: 3 h

Plaza Santo Domingo and Church

Old Town

The old town's liveliest square, home to Cartagena's oldest church, dating from 1539, restaurant terraces, and a bronze statue of a reclining woman by Fernando Botero, donated to the city. In the evening, bands play and people dance cumbia.

Tip: The restaurants on the square are the most expensive in the city and the food is average — sit here for a drink and walk a couple of blocks further for dinner. Locals touch Botero's statue for luck, which is why parts of the bronze are polished shiny.

Admission:: free
Time needed:: 1.5 h

Las Bóvedas and Barrio San Diego

San Diego

23 vaulted chambers built into the walls in 1798 as an ammunition store and later used as a prison; today they house a row of craft shops. The adjoining San Diego district is a quieter, less touristy part of the walled city.

Tip: Bargaining is expected at Las Bóvedas, and you should start at around two-thirds of the first price offered — it's one of the few places in Colombia where that's the norm. Anyone after a Wayúu mochila bag should check the weave: handwoven ones show the same pattern on both sides, machine-made ones don't.

Admission:: free
Time needed:: 1.5 h

Photos: Ciudad Amurallada and the City Walls — Sgonzalezb (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Castillo San Felipe de Barajas — Martin St-Amant (S23678) (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Getsemaní — Joe Ross from Lansing, Michigan (CC BY-SA 2.0) · Convento de la Popa — Petruss (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Torre del Reloj and Plaza de los Coches — Bernard Gagnon (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Palacio de la Inquisición — Thelmadatter (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Bocagrande — poirpom (CC BY 2.0) · Plaza Santo Domingo and Church — Bernard Gagnon (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Las Bóvedas and Barrio San Diego — Bernard Gagnon (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Where to stay

Areas and districts, matched to the kind of trip you are taking

Ciudad Amurallada (Old Town)

Best for: first visits and atmosphere

Everything inside the walls is walkable, evenings are spent strolling the cobbled lanes, and boutique hotels occupy colonial houses with inner courtyards. It's the most expensive part of the city and has no beach. Anyone here for Cartagena itself shouldn't stay anywhere else.

Getsemaní

Best for: lower prices and nightlife

A quarter just outside the walls with murals, hostels, bars and Plaza de la Trinidad, where the whole neighbourhood gathers every evening. Accommodation and food cost roughly half what they do inside the walls, and it's a 10-minute walk to the old town. Noisier and rawer, which most visitors see as an advantage.

Bocagrande

Best for: beach and large hotels

A peninsula with high-rise hotels, apartments and a city beach. It has the most rooms, pools and sea views, but architecturally it's a different city from historic Cartagena. It's 10 minutes by taxi or 20 minutes walking along the promenade to the old town.

Manga and La Boquilla

Best for: longer stays and budget travel

Manga is a quiet residential district on an island between the old town and the mainland, with republican-era villas and no tourists. La Boquilla is a fishing settlement north of the airport with a long beach, mangroves and the cheapest accommodation. Both require factoring in transport to the centre.

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Getting around

From the airport

Rafael Núñez Airport sits right in the city, 5km from the walls, so the transfer to the old town takes 15 minutes — it's one of the closest airports to a city centre in Latin America. Direct flights from Madrid serve Cartagena from Europe; otherwise connections run via Bogotá, Panama City or Miami, with journeys from many European cities taking around 18 hours with 2 stops. Domestic connections to Bogotá and Medellín are frequent and cheap, with flights taking 1.5 hours. The bus terminal is on the edge of the city, with long-distance services to Santa Marta and Medellín.

Rafael Núñez International Airport (CTG) · 5 km

Taxi to the old town (fixed airport rate)· 15 min· COP 20,000
Uber or InDrive· 15 min· COP 15,000
Hotel transfer· 15 min· included in stay
Taxi to Bocagrande· 20 min· COP 25,000

Around town

Both the old town and Getsemaní are walkable, and a car is more of a hindrance inside the walls. For longer distances, use Uber, InDrive or Cabify — cheaper and more predictable than street taxis, which have no meter and make up the fare. There's also a fast bus line, Transcaribe, with a dedicated lane, connecting the airport, the centre and Bocagrande for a few thousand pesos, but it requires a prepaid card. Boats to the Rosario Islands depart from Muelle de la Bodeguita between 8 and 9am.

On footThe old town measures 800 by 600m; everything worth seeing is within a 20-minute walk. · free

Uber, InDrive, CabifyFixed price up front with no haggling; the most common way for visitors to get around Cartagena. · COP 8,000

TranscaribeA fast bus line with a dedicated lane between the airport, the centre and Bocagrande; a prepaid card is required. · COP 3,000

Boat to the Rosario IslandsDepartures from Muelle de la Bodeguita in the morning; a port fee is added to the ticket at the dock. · COP 70,000

Useful apps: Uber, InDrive, Google Maps, Rappi

When to go

Cartagena is hot and humid all year, with the temperature holding around 31°C regardless of month. What varies is rainfall and wind. From December to April it's dry and the trade wind eases the heat — this is clearly the best period, and also the most expensive, peaking around Christmas and New Year. From May to November it's humid, with afternoon downpours common; October sees the most rain. The city's November independence celebrations are the best cultural event of the year, but accommodation sells out and gets pricier then.

Best time

December to April

What to avoid

September and October because of downpours and mugginess

Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Day	31°	31°	31°	32°	32°	32°	32°	32°	32°	31°	31°	31°
Night	24°	24°	25°	25°	26°	26°	26°	26°	26°	25°	25°	24°
Rainy days	1	1	1	3	8	7	5	7	10	15	10	4
Sea	26°	26°	26°	27°	28°	29°	29°	29°	29°	29°	28°	27°

Food & drink

Cartagena cooks Caribbean Colombian: coconut, fish, plantain and lime in place of the Andean potatoes and soups. The staple pairing found everywhere is fried fish with coconut rice and patacón. The morning street snack is arepa de huevo, the afternoon one is ceviche. Coconut lemonade is drunk in the shade, and no one bats an eye if you have 3. Avoid oysters and ceviche from beach vendors without refrigeration; the same dishes are safe at a proper counter. The best value is the midday "menú del día", which gets you soup, a main course and a juice for a few thousand pesos.

What to try

Arepa de huevo

A corn flatbread fried twice, with an egg cracked in between. A speciality of the Caribbean coast, this street-stall breakfast costs COP 3,000. It must be freshly fried — once cold, it turns rubbery.

Ceviche cartagenero

Colombian ceviche is different from the Peruvian version — shrimp or fish in a ketchup, mayonnaise and lime sauce, served with salty crackers. Buy it from a place with a refrigerated counter, not from a beach vendor.

Sancocho de pescado

A thick fish soup with cassava, plantain and corn, cooked in coconut milk. A Sunday dish served on the coast in a clay bowl, with rice served on the side.

Arroz con coco

Rice cooked in coconut milk until dark, with a touch of sugar, a sweet-salty side to fried fish. Caribbean Colombia serves it with everything, and no plate feels complete without it.

Patacón and carimañola

Patacón is mashed and fried green plantain, while carimañola is a fried cassava roll filled with meat or cheese. Cheap and everywhere as street food.

Coconut lemonade and juices

Iced lemonade made with coconut milk and lime is a coastal classic. Alongside it are fruit juices you won't find elsewhere — lulo, guanábana, maracuyá, corozo; ask for the "en agua" version, not "en leche".

Bandeja paisa

A huge platter from Antioquia: beans, rice, ground beef, chicharrón, sausage, fried egg, plantain, avocado and arepa. One plate feeds 2 people, and on the coast it turns up as a tourist item.

Tinto and café

"Tinto" is a small, weak black coffee from a street vendor's flask for COP 1,000, drunk all day long. Ironically, good Colombian coffee beans are only found at specialist cafés — the best used to all be exported.

What it costs

Arepa de huevo from a stall

COP 3,000–5,000

Menú del día

COP 15,000–25,000

Dinner at an old-town restaurant

COP 70,000–140,000

Coconut lemonade

COP 10,000–18,000

San Felipe fortress admission

from COP 32,000

Full-day Rosario Islands trip

from COP 130,000

Uber from the airport to the centre

COP 15,000–25,000

Night in a 4-star hotel in the old town

COP 400,000–800,000

Indicative prices that change over time — treat them as a guide, not a price list.

Practical information

SocketsAtwo flat pins (US/JP)Btwo flat pins plus ground (US)

Voltage110V / 60Hz

Tap waterTap water is treated, bottled is common — Tap water is drinkable and tastes fine in Bogotá and Medellín, but not on the Caribbean coast — in Cartagena it's treated and locals drink it, but foreigners usually react to it. Bottled water costs around COP 2,000 for 1.5 litres in shops, 3 times that on the street in the tourist centre. Ice in restaurants is made from treated water and is safe. In the coastal heat, plan on 3 litres a day; the cheapest option is a six-pack from an Éxito or Olímpica supermarket.

TippingBills usually show a printed "propina voluntaria" of 10%, and the waiter will ask whether to add it — it's voluntary and can be declined without awkwardness, but is customary for good service. Bellhops get COP 2,000–3,000, and tour guides COP 10,000 per person. Cards are accepted at restaurants and hotels; the street and markets want cash. ATMs charge a fee of around COP 20,000, so withdraw larger amounts at once; Davivienda and Bancolombia ATMs inside branches are the best value.

Driving on theright

SafetyColombia has changed over the past 20 years, and tourist areas are now generally safe, though petty crime remains. The local rule "no dar papaya" applies — don't give anyone the opportunity: don't take out your phone on the street, leave watches and jewellery at the hotel, and don't hang a bag on the back of a café chair. At night, get around by app-booked taxi, not one flagged down on the street. Don't leave drinks unattended — scopolamine spiking at bars is a real risk. The emergency number is 123, and tourist police patrol the main visitor areas.

Opening hoursShops are open from 9am to 7pm, and shopping centres until 9pm, including Sundays. Restaurants serve lunch, the main meal of the day, from noon to 2pm, with a "menú del día" at a fraction of the evening price. Dinner is eaten from 7pm. Museums close on Mondays. On Sunday mornings, major cities close their main avenues to cars for cyclists, an event known as ciclovía.

Customs & etiquetteColombians are formally polite: greetings, "por favor" and "gracias" are used far more than in Spain, and people are addressed as "señor" and "señora". Jokes about drugs, Escobar and cocaine are considered genuinely offensive, even when a Colombian makes them. Bargaining at markets is mild — aggressive haggling isn't the norm. Shoulders should be covered in churches. The phrase "¿Me regalas...?" simply means "could I have...?" and isn't a request for a gift.

A few local wordsHello — Buenos díasThank you — GraciasHow much does it cost? — ¿Cuánto vale?The bill, please — La cuenta, por favorNo, thank you — No, graciasI don't speak Spanish — No hablo español

How to plan your days

1 day

A Day in Cartagena

18am at the San Felipe fortress while it's still cool.
2Morning in the old town: Plaza de los Coches, Bolívar, the cathedral.
3Lunch — menú del día away from the main square.
4Afternoon siesta, then Las Bóvedas.
5Sunset on the walls, then evening at Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsemaní.

2 days

2 Days with the Islands

1First day as in the plan above.
29am boat to the Rosario Islands.
3Swimming, snorkelling and a fish lunch on the island.
4Return around 4pm and a shower.
5Dinner in Getsemaní and live music on the square.

3 days

3 Days with the Surrounding Area

1The first 2 days as in the plan above.
2Morning at Convento de la Popa for views over the whole bay.
3Lunch in Manga or Bocagrande.
4Afternoon at the El Totumo mud volcano or the mangroves at La Boquilla.
5Last evening on the Bocagrande promenade, buying coffee and cocoa.

Day trips

Islas del Rosario

35 km · 1 h by fast boat

An archipelago of 27 coral islets in a national park south of the city, where the water is clear and the reef is the only one near Cartagena suitable for snorkelling. Boats depart between 8 and 9am, the trip takes a full day, and a port fee is added to the ticket at the dock. The islands have beach clubs with sun loungers and lunch.

Playa Blanca on Barú

45 km · 1 h by car or boat

The best-known beach near Cartagena, with white sand and turquoise water, reachable by a new road or by boat. It's crowded with vendors and day-trippers during the day; anyone who stays overnight in a simple cabin has the beach virtually to themselves in the morning. Agree prices for loungers and food in advance, or expect to be charged several times over.

El Totumo Mud Volcano

50 km · 1 h by car

A 15m cone filled with warm grey mud so thick you can't sink or swim in it — only float. After bathing, people rinse off in the adjoining lagoon, where local women will wash you for a few thousand pesos. It's more of a curiosity than a beauty spot, but it's an experience you won't get anywhere else.

Frequently asked questions

Is Cartagena safe?+

The old town, Getsemaní and Bocagrande are patrolled and tourists move around freely there, even at night. The main risk is petty crime: don't take out your phone on the street, don't hang a bag on the back of a chair, and never leave a drink unattended. After dark, get around by app-booked car rather than on foot outside the tourist areas. The local rule is "no dar papaya" — don't give anyone the opportunity.

Where can you swim in Cartagena?+

Within the city, only at Bocagrande and La Boquilla, where the sand is dark and the water murky from the mouth of the Magdalena River. The real Caribbean beaches are on the islands: Rosario, an hour by boat, or Playa Blanca on the Barú peninsula. If swimming is your main reason for coming, plan on a full day trip rather than a hotel beach.

How many days are enough for Cartagena?+

2 days are enough for the old town, the fortress and Getsemaní. 3 days let you add a full-day trip to the Rosario Islands, which is exactly what makes staying longer worthwhile. Those combining city and beach for a week typically spend 3 days in Cartagena and the rest in Santa Marta or on Barú.

When is the best time to visit?+

From December to April, when it's dry and the trade wind eases the heat. The temperature stays around 31°C year-round, so humidity and rain make the difference. October sees the most rain. Around Christmas and during the November independence celebrations the city gets busy and accommodation is significantly pricier.

How do you pay in Cartagena, and how much should you tip?+

Restaurants and hotels take cards; markets, stalls and taxis are cash only. Bills usually show a voluntary 10% "propina", and the waiter will ask whether to add it. ATMs charge a fee of around COP 20,000 per withdrawal, so take out larger amounts at once.

Is the Rosario Islands trip worth it?+

Yes — it's the only place nearby with clear water and a reef for snorkelling. Plan for a full day, departing around 9am; a port fee is added to the boat ticket at the dock, and there's an entrance fee for the beach club on the island. Avoid the cheapest offers from street vendors, which often mean an overcrowded boat.

How far is the airport from the centre?+

5km, with the transfer taking 15 minutes — it's one of the closest airports to a city centre in Latin America. Taxis at the airport charge fixed zone-based fares shown on a board at the exit, and Uber and InDrive also operate here. Walking from the airport into the centre isn't done.

Do you need a visa for Colombia?+

Most Western passport holders don't need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days; the passport must be valid for the length of the stay, and a return ticket is required. An online Check-Mig form must be filled in before arrival, no earlier than 24 hours before departure — without it you may not be allowed to board. There's no mandatory vaccination, though yellow fever is recommended for travel to the Amazon.

Visa Requirements

Check the latest visa requirements for entering this country. Some nationalities may need to apply for a visa or e-visa before travel.

Check visa requirements

Emergency Numbers

Police123 Ambulance125 Fire119

Language

Spanish

Currency

COP

Timezone

GMT-5

Dial Code

+57

Population

52M

Area

1,141,748 km²

Voltage

110V / 60Hz

Driving Side

Right

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