Do I need a visa for Nepal?+
Yes, but you get it on arrival at the airport. Fill in the online form on the Nepali immigration website in advance, then pay in cash at the airport: 15 days costs $30, 30 days $50, 90 days $125. Your passport must be valid for 6 months and have a free page. Bring cash in dollars or euros.
How many days for Kathmandu?+
3 days for the valley: Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur and the great stupas. Most people come here for a trek, though, so Kathmandu is the start and end of the trip — 2 days before the trek for permits and gear, and 1–2 days afterwards. With Pokhara and Chitwan National Park, it's a trip of 2–3 weeks.
How do you cope with the polluted air?+
In winter and spring, Kathmandu has some of the worst air in Asia because of dust, traffic and a temperature inversion trapped in the valley. Wearing an FFP2 mask is sensible, especially in Thamel and on main roads. Air is cleanest in autumn after the monsoon. If you have breathing problems, spend more time in Bhaktapur and up in the hills.
Is Nepal safe?+
Nepal is safe for tourists and people are friendly. The main risks are on the roads — mountain routes are dangerous and buses do crash — and altitude sickness on treks. Crime against tourists is low. Bandh strikes can shut down transport for a day. Steer clear of political demonstrations.
Do I need a guide for trekking?+
Since 2023, a licensed guide has been compulsory for independent trekkers in national parks and protected areas, with the exception of the Everest region, where the local community has yet to enforce the rule. Guides and permits can be sorted in Thamel within a day. Insurance must cover helicopter rescue from altitude.
How do you pay in Nepal?+
In cash, in Nepali rupees. ATMs in Thamel dispense NPR 10,000–35,000 at a time and charge a fee. Cards are accepted at better hotels and restaurants, often with a 3–4% surcharge. Bring plenty of cash for a trek, since there are barely any ATMs in the mountains. Indian 500 and 2,000-rupee notes are banned in Nepal.
What's the difference between Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur?+
All 3 are former Newar kingdoms in a single valley, each with its own royal square. Kathmandu is the biggest and most chaotic, Patan is the most harmonious and has the best museum, and Bhaktapur is the best preserved, car-free and home to traditional crafts. Ideally, visit all 3.
When can you see the Himalayas from Kathmandu?+
On clear mornings from October to February, best of all in November and December after rain. From the city centre the mountains are visible only occasionally because of haze; it's better to head up to Nagarkot, Chandragiri or Swayambhunath early in the morning. In spring and during the monsoon, the mountains are mostly hidden. A scenic flight around Everest from Tribhuvan Airport takes an hour.