How many days do you need for Kandy?+
2 days is enough for the Temple of the Tooth, the lake, the botanical gardens, a dance show and a circuit of the temples nearby. But Kandy is mainly a base — add a day for Sigiriya and Dambulla and continue by train into the hills. A typical Sri Lanka route runs from Colombo through Sigiriya, Kandy and the hills to the coast over 2 weeks.
How should you dress for the Temple of the Tooth?+
White or light-coloured clothing with long sleeves or at least covered shoulders, and trousers or a skirt below the knee. Dark colours aren't forbidden, but white is traditional. Shoes and headwear are left at the cloakroom, and you walk barefoot. You won't be let in without suitable clothing, and a sarong can be bought at the entrance.
When is the Esala Perahera?+
In July or August, according to the lunar calendar, 10 nights before the full moon of the Esala month. Processions with decorated elephants, drummers, dancers and a replica of the tooth casket move through the streets around the lake, with the final night the most spectacular. Grandstand seats are bought in advance, and hotels fill up and become far more expensive.
How do you buy a train ticket into the hills?+
First- and second-class reserved tickets go on sale online through Sri Lanka Railways' website 30 days ahead, and they sell out within minutes for the popular Kandy–Ella route. Unreserved third-class seats can be bought at the station on the day of travel, with no reservation and sometimes standing room only. The best views are on the right-hand side heading towards Ella.
Do you need a visa for Sri Lanka?+
Sri Lanka requires an electronic travel authorisation (ETA), arranged online before your trip on the official government website. Conditions and fees have changed in recent years, so check the current requirements and avoid third-party sites that charge extra. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months.
Is Kandy safe?+
Yes, Kandy is safe and friendly. The most common nuisance is touts — tuk-tuk drivers who want to take you to a gem or spice shop, and self-appointed guides at the temples. A polite refusal is enough. Traffic in the centre is heavy and pavements are narrow. Monkeys in the forests can be bold, and leeches appear after rain.
Is the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage worth it?+
It's popular, but controversial — animal welfare groups criticise the fact that elephants are kept chained and that the bathing sessions are more of a show. If you want to see elephants ethically, go to Minneriya or Kaudulla National Parks, where hundreds of wild elephants gather during the dry season from July to September.
What should you bring back from Kandy?+
Highland tea straight from a tea shop or museum, spices from the market, wood carvings and batik. Kandy is also a centre of the gem trade, especially sapphires and moonstones — buy only from shops certified by the National Gem and Jewellery Authority, and don't let a tuk-tuk driver steer you to a "government" shop.