Is Kolkata safe?+
Yes, Kolkata is among the safest big cities in India, even at night. Harassment of women is rarer here than in Delhi. As everywhere, watch your pockets in crowds and around Howrah and Sealdah stations, and book taxis through an app.
When is Durga Puja?+
According to the Hindu calendar, at the end of September or in October; the main celebrations last 5 days. Thousands of decorated pandal pavilions with statues of the goddess Durga go up around the city, and people go from one to the next all night long. UNESCO has listed it as intangible cultural heritage. Book hotels months ahead and expect gridlocked streets.
Can I volunteer with Mother Teresa's mission?+
Yes, the Missionaries of Charity take volunteers for short-term help at their homes, even for just a few days. Sign up in person at the Mother House on AJC Bose Road, on selected mornings. Mother Teresa's tomb at the Mother House is open to visitors free of charge.
How many days do I need for Kolkata?+
2–3 days for the main sights, the river and the food. Kolkata is also a good base for the tea hills of Darjeeling (fly to Bagdogra, then drive), the Sundarbans, or for crossing into Bangladesh or Bhutan.
How do the trams work?+
The network has shrunk to a handful of lines in recent years; you buy your ticket from the conductor on board. The prettiest ride is the route around the Maidan and Esplanade. It's slow, but it's the cheapest and most charming way to see the old city centre.
How do I get from Howrah station into the centre?+
The quickest way is the underwater metro, which runs from Howrah station beneath the river to Esplanade in a few minutes. The alternatives are the ferry from the ghat by the station, or a taxi from the prepaid queue; don't go with drivers who approach you on the platform.
What should I buy in Kolkata?+
Bengali cotton and silk saris and scarves, terracotta and clay figurines, books on College Street, and Darjeeling tea from the shops around New Market. Sweets are best bought in tins, which survive the journey home.
Is it appropriate to photograph people and poverty?+
Be sensitive about it. Kolkata's residents are welcoming and often happy to be photographed if you ask, but photographing people living on the street without permission is disrespectful. No photography at all is allowed in temples or at the Missionaries of Charity.