Pag is a long barren island in northern Dalmatia with an almost lunar landscape, and Novalja is its liveliest town, linked to the mainland by a bridge and a ferry from Žigljen. Above the town lies Zrće beach, the best-known beach club complex in Croatia, where from June to September festivals and parties are held for young people, above all Czechs, Slovaks and Poles. On the other side of the island are the calmer Stara Novalja, vineyards, salt pans and the village of Lun with its thousand-year-old olive trees. Pag is also famed for its cheese, paški sir, its lace and its lamb. Novalja is thus clearly twofold: Zrće for parties, the rest of the island for calm. The island is dry and windy and treeless, so shade is rare, and the beaches are pebbly and rocky. From the Czech Republic it is about eleven hundred kilometres by car and the nearest airport is Zadar. Families with children should choose accommodation away from Zrće, for example in Stara Novalja or Metajna.
The places worth your time in Pag and Novalja, and what to expect at each
Novalja
A two-and-a-half-kilometre pebble beach by Novalja with clubs such as Papaya, Noa and Aquarius. From June to September electronic-music festivals and parties are held here, drawing tens of thousands of young people. By day people lounge, by night they dance.
Tip: For parties arrive after ten in the evening; the entry is paid only at some clubs. Families should avoid weekends and August, when the crowd is biggest.
Novalja
A small town with a promenade, cafés and a harbour from which boats run to beaches and islands. In the evening it is lively and the choice of restaurants wide. It is a base for the whole island.
Tip: The best lunches are in the side lanes; cafés on the promenade are pricier. Small boats run to beaches south of the town.
Caska
The remains of a Roman settlement in Caska bay, part of which lies beneath the sea. In calm weather you can see walls and streets that an earthquake submerged in the sixth century. You can snorkel and also look from a boat.
Tip: The best visibility is in calm sea in the morning. Bring a snorkel and mask; for the return it is worth walking round the bay.
Lun
Old olive trees at the northern tip of the island, which have grown for almost two thousand years and are among the oldest in the Mediterranean. There are over eighty thousand, of which several hundred are more than a thousand years old. The village of Lun is one of the most remote on the island.
Tip: The way to Lun is by a narrow road; go by car and bring water. Olive oil and brandy can be bought straight from locals.
Pag
An old town with narrow lanes and a church, home of the renowned Pag lace, a fine hand-made lace recognised by UNESCO. Women make it in front of their houses. It is the best place to buy a quality souvenir.
Tip: Lace costs from ten euros up depending on size; ask about the origin, as cheap pieces are often from China. It is best in the morning.
Pag
Pans by Pag town where sea salt has been made since the Middle Ages. Today the salt is gathered in the salt fields and sold in a shop by the entrance. It is a strange place with a pink and white landscape.
Tip: A visit is free, and salt is bought in the shop. The best light is before sunset, when the pans turn pink.
Kolan
A matured sheep's cheese from the milk of sheep grazing on stony ground sprayed by sea wind, which gives it a distinct salty taste. It is one of Croatia's best-known cheeses and is protected by a designation of origin. It can be tasted at cheese dairies.
Tip: Call in at the Gligora cheese dairy and buy a piece of matured cheese with a few drops of olive oil. The price is from twenty euros a kilo.
south of the island
A reinforced-concrete bridge from 1968 linking the island with the mainland, whose arch is three hundred and one metres long. From the bridge there is a view of the Ljubač strait and the rocky coast. It is the best viewpoint in the area and a popular photo spot.
Tip: You reach the bridge by car; there are a few places to stop nearby. The best light is in the evening, when the sun sets.
Stara Novalja
A calm resort in the north of the island with pebble beaches, pine woods and family hotels. It is the best choice for families with children, as it is far from the parties at Zrće. The sea is clean and shallow.
Tip: A bus from Novalja runs several times a day; a car is handy. In the coves you can swim without crowds; bring water shoes.
Photos: Zrće Beach — K S (CC BY-SA 2.0) · Novalja Town — August Dominus (CC BY-SA 4.0) · The Olive Groves of Lun — Silverije (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Pag Town and Lace — Silverije (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Pag Salt Pans — Carsten Steger (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Pag Cheese — Silverije (CC BY-SA 4.0) · The Pag Bridge — pepanos (CC BY 3.0) · Stara Novalja — Silverije (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Areas and districts, matched to the kind of trip you are taking
Best for: restaurants and transport
A town with a promenade, restaurants and hotels. It has the widest range of services and easy transport to Zrće. In season noisy in the evening.
Best for: parties and the beach
A beach with clubs and hotels by the sea. It is lively all night, an advantage for the young and a drawback for families. Suits friends and groups.
Best for: calm and families
A resort with pines, pebble beaches and apartments. It is calm and good for children. A good choice for families.
Best for: campsites and calm
A village on the west side with campsites, coves and beaches. It is calmer and cheaper. Suits nature and swimming.
The nearest airport is Zadar (ZAD), about sixty kilometres from Novalja, with flights from Prague and other European cities. From the airport you drive or take a transfer in about an hour and a quarter, over the bridge or by the Žigljen–Prizna ferry. From the Czech Republic it is about eleven hundred kilometres by car, a long journey. In season coaches run from Prague straight to Novalja.
Zadar Airport (ZAD) · 60 km
On the island you can get by without a car only in Novalja and Zrće, which buses and shuttles serve. Taxis are pricey. For Lun and Pag a car is necessary; roads are narrow and winding. The Žigljen to Prizna ferry runs every hour and costs about five euros.
Useful apps: Google Maps, Bolt, Jadrolinija, Maps.me
Pag has a Mediterranean climate with a hot, dry summer and a mild winter. In July and August it is around thirty degrees and hardly rains. A strong bora wind from autumn to spring can halt ferries. The best months are June and September; festivals at Zrće run from June to September.
Best time
June and September
What to avoid
November to March (bora and closed businesses)
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day | 9° | 10° | 13° | 17° | 22° | 27° | 30° | 30° | 25° | 20° | 15° | 11° |
| Night | 3° | 3° | 6° | 9° | 13° | 17° | 20° | 20° | 16° | 12° | 8° | 5° |
| Rainy days | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 6 | 7 | 9 | 9 |
| Sea | 13° | 13° | 14° | 16° | 19° | 23° | 25° | 25° | 23° | 20° | 17° | 14° |
Pag cooking is plain and stony: lamb, cheese, salt and fish. Lamb roasted over a fire and Pag cheese are among the best in Croatia. A lunch in a konoba costs fifteen to thirty euros.
Pag cheese
A matured sheep's cheese with a distinct salty taste from the sea wind. Served with olives and figs.
Pag lamb
Meat from sheep that graze on salty grass, roasted over a fire or under a bell. Tender and aromatic.
Pag salt
Sea salt from the pans by Pag town, fine and flaky. A good souvenir.
Grilled fish
Fresh Adriatic fish, grilled with olive oil and garlic. The price is by weight.
Scampi buzara
Scampi stewed with wine, garlic and breadcrumbs. Deserves bread for dipping.
Pag brandy
A spirit of island herbs, strong, sometimes with honey. Sold in small bottles.
Fritule
Small fried doughnuts with raisins, dusted with sugar. A dessert sold at festivals.
Espresso
€1.5–2
Lunch in a konoba
€15–30
Pag cheese (kg)
€20–35
A beer
€3–4
Entry to a Zrće club
€15–40
Ferry
€5
3★ apartment (night)
€70–160
Lounger (day)
€12–20
Indicative prices that change over time — treat them as a guide, not a price list.
1 day
2 days
3 days
Zadar
60 km · 1 hr by car
An old town with a Roman forum, the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun. It suits a full-day trip and can be combined with the Pag Bridge.
Plitvice Lakes
130 km · 2 hrs by car
A national park of sixteen lakes linked by waterfalls, a UNESCO site. It suits a full day.
Paklenica National Park
90 km · 1 hr 30 min by car
A canyon with climbing walls and trails in the Velebit range. It suits an active trip.
Yes, but choose the right place. Zrće is for evenings and noisy, while Stara Novalja and Metajna are calm and have beaches for children. In July and August it is best to avoid Zrće.
By car it is about eleven hundred kilometres through Slovenia and Zagreb, a long journey with an overnight stop. You can fly to Zadar and go on by car or transfer in an hour and a quarter. In season coaches also run from Prague.
June and September, when it is warm and less crowded. In July and August are the festivals at Zrće and big crowds. Out of season the island is calm, but part of the businesses are closed.
Croatia's largest beach club complex by Novalja, with the clubs Papaya, Noa and Aquarius. From June to September festivals and parties are held. It is aimed at the young and noisy in the evening.
Yes, in the coves it is shallow and clean, but the beaches are pebbly and rocky. For children Stara Novalja and Metajna are better; bring water shoes. Beware the bora wind.
Pag cheese, salt, lace, olive oil and brandy. The best cheese is bought at a cheese dairy, and ask about the origin of lace. Cheese can be vacuum-packed.
For Lun, Pag town and the coves yes. In Novalja and at Zrće a bus and taxi suffice. Roads are narrow and winding.
Yes, Croatia adopted the euro in January 2023. Cards are accepted nearly everywhere, and cash is useful at markets and in smaller konobas.
Check the latest visa requirements for entering this country. Some nationalities may need to apply for a visa or e-visa before travel.
Check visa requirementsLanguage
Croatian
Currency
EUR
Timezone
Europe/Zagreb
Dial Code
+385
Population
3.9M
Area
56,594 km²
Voltage
230V / 50Hz
Driving Side
Right
