Bologna is the capital of Emilia-Romagna and for many Italians the best city for food: here tortellini, ragù (which is never eaten here on spaghetti, but on tagliatelle) and mortadella were born. The city is also home to the oldest university in the world, founded in 1088, which gives it a lively student atmosphere. A walk beneath the arcades, which stretch forty kilometres and are on the UNESCO list, is unforgettable, and the Two Towers, Asinelli and Garisenda, are the symbol of the city. Bologna is less crowded than Rome or Florence, prices are lower and the food excellent. It lies an hour by train from Florence and Venice and halfway between Milan and Rome. From Prague you fly directly in an hour and a half. The best time is April to June and September to October; in summer it is hot. You pay in euros.
The places worth your time in Bologna, and what to expect at each
centre
The main square of Bologna, ringed by the basilica of San Petronio, Palazzo d'Accursio and the Neptune fountain. It is the heart of the city and where Bolognesi gather. In the evening there are concerts and film screenings.
Tip: Sit on the steps of San Petronio and watch people. Coffee on the square is pricier; go into side lanes.
Piazza Maggiore
A huge Gothic basilica of the fourteenth century, the fifth largest church in the world, with a never-completed façade. Inside is the world's longest sundial from 1655. Entry is free.
Tip: Entry is free, but cover shoulders and knees. For a small fee you can climb to a terrace with a view.
centre
Two leaning medieval towers, the symbol of Bologna: the Asinelli is ninety-seven metres high and you can climb it by four hundred and ninety-eight steps. The Garisenda is shorter and tilted. From the top of the Asinelli there is a lovely view of the city.
Tip: The climb costs about five euros; book tickets in advance online. The Garisenda is closed for safety. Wear comfortable shoes.
centre
A bronze fountain of the sixteenth century with Neptune by Giambologna, which Bolognesi call 'the Giant'. It stands next to Piazza Maggiore and is a popular place for photos. The fountain dates from 1566.
Tip: Come at sunset, when the light is lovely. Look at the statue from different angles; the guides tell a story about it.
all over the city
Forty kilometres of arcades that line the city's streets, shelter from rain and sun and are on the UNESCO list. The longest leads to the sanctuary of San Luca, three and a half kilometres long. It is the defining feature of the city.
Tip: Stroll along the arcades even in rain. The longest arcade leads uphill to the sanctuary and takes an hour.
San Luca hill
A pilgrimage basilica of the eighteenth century on a hill above the city, reached by the longest arcade in the world with 666 arches. From the terrace there is a view of the roofs of Bologna and the Apennines. It is a favourite walking goal.
Tip: The climb takes about an hour; you can also go by bus 20. Bring water. It is loveliest at sunset.
centre
The building of the former university of the sixteenth century with a famous wooden anatomical theatre, wall paintings and students' coats of arms. It is the loveliest interior in Bologna. Today it is the city library.
Tip: Entry costs about five euros. Come in the morning; the anatomical theatre is small, so only a few people fit.
centre
A medieval market quarter by Piazza Maggiore with shops of cheeses, hams, pasta and wines. It is the best place to buy specialities and taste tortellini. The lanes are narrow and fragrant.
Tip: In the morning the choice is widest. Taste mortadella and Parmesan; buy Modena vinegar to take home. Prices are higher than in a supermarket.
centre
A complex of seven linked churches of the fifth to twelfth centuries that forms a calm courtyard and pilgrimage precinct. It is the most unusual religious monument in Bologna. It is calm with few tourists.
Tip: Entry is free. Come in the morning; cover shoulders and knees. The square in front of the church is a good goal for coffee.
Photos: Piazza Maggiore — Nick.mon (CC0) · San Petronio Basilica — No machine-readable author provided. ZeWrestler assumed (based on copyright claims). (Public domain) · The Two Towers (Asinelli and Garisenda) — Vanni Lazzari (CC BY-SA 4.0) · The Neptune Fountain — Didier Descouens (CC BY-SA 4.0) · The Arcades (portici) — Mattes (CC BY-SA 4.0) · The Sanctuary of Madonna di San Luca — Ввласенко (CC BY-SA 3.0) · The Archiginnasio — sailko (CC BY 2.5) · The Quadrilatero and Markets — Phyrexian (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Santo Stefano (Seven Churches) — MenkinAlRire (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Areas and districts, matched to the kind of trip you are taking
Best for: monuments and food
The area around Piazza Maggiore, the Two Towers and the Quadrilatero with hotels and restaurants. Everything is at hand. Best for a first visit.
Best for: students and bars
The district around the university with cheap restaurants, bars and bookshops. It is lively in the evening and prices are lower. A good choice for the young.
Best for: calm and authenticity
A quiet district east of the centre with small trattorias and hotels. It is calmer and cheaper. Suits a longer stay.
Best for: transport and cheap accommodation
The area around the main station with hotels, from which trains run all over Italy. Prices are lower, but the setting less picturesque. Suits trips.
Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) is eight kilometres from the centre, with flights from Prague in an hour and a half. The Aerobus runs to the centre in twenty minutes. Trains run from Bologna to Florence in half an hour, to Venice in an hour and a half and to Milan in an hour and a half. By car from the Czech Republic it is about eight hundred kilometres.
Bologna Marconi (BLQ) · 8 km
The centre of Bologna can be walked; the arcades shelter from rain. City buses run to San Luca and the districts. Bikes are rented. Trains run to Modena, Parma and Ravenna.
Useful apps: Google Maps, Trenitalia, Italo, TPER
Bologna has a continental climate with a hot summer and a cold winter. In July it is around thirty-one degrees, in January around seven and occasionally fog. The best time is April to June and September to October. In winter it is damp, but the arcades shelter you.
Best time
April to June and September to October
What to avoid
January and February (cold and damp)
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day | 7° | 10° | 15° | 19° | 24° | 28° | 31° | 31° | 26° | 20° | 13° | 8° |
| Night | 0° | 1° | 5° | 9° | 13° | 17° | 20° | 20° | 16° | 11° | 6° | 1° |
| Rainy days | 45 | 45 | 55 | 65 | 60 | 50 | 40 | 50 | 60 | 75 | 80 | 55 |
Bologna cooking is considered the best in Italy: fresh pasta, cheeses and hams. A main dish costs fifteen to thirty euros. People drink Lambrusco, Sangiovese and beer.
Tagliatelle al ragù
Fresh wide noodles with a meat sauce, the true 'Bolognese' sauce. The best-known dish of the city.
Tortellini in brodo
Small filled pasta in beef broth, a traditional Christmas dish. Warming and intense.
Lasagne verdi
Green lasagne with ragù and béchamel, baked golden. A family dish.
Mortadella
A smooth pork sausage, famous in Bologna and around. Served in a bun or on a board.
Tigelle and crescentine
Small leavened flatbreads filled with ham, cheese or pesto. Typical of the region.
Parmigiano Reggiano
A maturing cheese from around Parma and Modena. Taste it in old vintages.
Lambrusco
A light sparkling red wine from Emilia. Suits hams and cheeses.
Espresso
€1.2–2
Lunch in a trattoria
€15–30
Tagliatelle al ragù
€10–15
A beer
€4–6
Asinelli Tower
€5
Archiginnasio
€5
3★ hotel (night)
€90–180
Aerobus
€6
Indicative prices that change over time — treat them as a guide, not a price list.
1 day
2 days
3 days
Modena
40 km · 30 min by train
The city of balsamic vinegar, Ferrari and Pavarotti. It suits half a day with a tasting.
Ravenna
80 km · 1 hr by train
A city with early Christian mosaics on the UNESCO list. It suits a full-day trip.
Florence
100 km · 35 min by fast train
The city of the Renaissance with the Uffizi and the cathedral. A fast train runs from Bologna and the trip takes a full day.
Two days suffice for the centre, the towers and the food. For Modena, Parma or Ravenna add a day. Bologna is a good base for northern Italy.
By direct flights in an hour and a half or by car, about eight hundred kilometres. By train via Munich and Verona. From the airport the Aerobus runs.
A meat sauce cooked slowly with beef, pork, vegetables and wine, served with tagliatelle. You will not find spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna.
April to June and September to October. In summer it is hot, but the arcades give shade. In winter it is damp, but calm.
It is cheaper than Rome or Florence: lunch costs fifteen to thirty euros, a hotel ninety to a hundred and eighty euros a night. Cheapest is accommodation out of the centre.
Yes, by fast train in thirty-five minutes. It is a popular full-day trip. Tickets cost about twenty euros.
Yes, it is safe and walkable, with arcades that shelter from rain. Children will enjoy the pasta and the towers. The museums are interesting.
Tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo, mortadella and tigelle. With them Lambrusco. For dessert zabaglione.
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Check visa requirementsLanguage
Italian
Currency
EUR
Timezone
Europe/Rome
Dial Code
+39
Population
59M
Area
301,340 km²
Voltage
230V / 50Hz
Driving Side
Right
